A Tale of Two Growers
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The growing season for temperate carnivores arrives the latest for growers in the Northeast and Midwest. Nevertheless, now that the hours of daylight are increasing and there is no longer snow on the ground, my Sarracenia collection has finally begun to show signs of life. Typically, S. flava and S. oreophila will be the first to send up new pitchers. Many plants that have reached sexual maturity will begin to put up flower buds at this time; if you do not want seeds, then you may wish to cut the flowers after blooming as seed production diverts resources.
Dealing with Rhizome Rot
Despite the excitement however, I also find this time of year to be the riskiest for my collection; consistent rain and cool temperatures throughout April mean that many plants are at risk of rot throughout early spring. Dying plants should be removed immediately to prevent the spread of fungal infection. However, noticing rot in the first place can be difficult - by the time the growth points show obvious signs of collapse, the rest of the rhizome will oftentimes already be compromised.
Although efforts can be made to save a plant if the problem is noticed early enough, it is obviously preferable to not have to deal with the issue in the first place. Here is a list of things that I personally find helpful in reducing the risk of rot:
Of course, the preventative measures listed above are not 100% effective. Emergency surgery should be performed quickly if you notice that a plant has rot and you wish to save it. Identifying rot early enough is difficult, so you must carefully observe your collection - I become suspicious of any plants that do not put out flowers or new pitchers at this time. Rotted sections of rhizome are also far softer than healthy portions; however, if it has progressed to the point where the majority of the plant is "squishy," you are likely too late.
This is what the plant looked like last autumn. Given what recently happened, it will probably be quite a while until it reaches that state again.
Hello everybody! Dan here.
To me, there are a number of characteristics that make a sundew visually appealing. From beautiful coloration to heavy dew production, many of these characteristics can be found in Drosera graomogolensis, a South American species whose popularity in cultivation has increased dramatically these past few years.
Also, let's get this out of the way: it's typicially pronounced "Gray-oh-moe-goal-en-sis."
Having only been discovered in 1997, D. graomogolensis is not necessarily a recent discovery, but it isn't all that old either. If you're interested in reading the species description, you can find it here.
Light, Temperature, Humidity, and Media:
As with other cool-growing South American Drosera, D. graomogolensis demonstrates superior growth with high light, cooler temperatures, and relatively high humidity (> 60% RH). Under these conditions, mature plants will retain dew on well over a dozen leaves at a time and develop striking red coloration. High light really is critical for good growth - without it, the plants will look green, drab, and depressing. The plants are not picky about media as long as it is acidic, water-retentive, and nutrient-free. Peat-based or Sphagnum mixes may work differently for you depending on your conditions but the plants should be able to grow well in both. If you are growing your plant in lower light conditions, I recommend adding more aggregates (perlite, sand, etc.); I have found that D. graomogolensis can be prone to root rot when grown in a dense media with lower light. D. graomogolensis is capable of growing roots upwards of 15" long. While short pots won't necessarily harm the plant, they will cause a buildup of coiled roots at the bottom and, in some cases, can lead to smaller plants. I recommend pots no shorter than 5" for mature plants. This species appreciates frequent feeding. As with almost all Drosera, do not apply any fertilizers to the roots.
South American Drosera have a reputation for being very picky. However, not only is D. graomogolensis one of the most beautiful South American species, but it is also one of the most adaptable! Make no mistake—the conditions described above will generally lead to the healthiest and best-looking plants. Adaptability merely means that D. graomogolensis has a wider range of conditions that makes it happy. While most South Americans prefer temperatures in the mid 70s, D. graomogolensis has grown happily for me with 85 degree days. It doesn't even seem to mind! However, it is important to note that you should have a larger temperature drop at night to offset warm daytime temperatures; this plant is certainly tolerant, but it will not be okay with 85 degree temperatures constantly. In regards to humidity adaptability, I have always grown my plants with very high humidity, but I have heard of other growers that have successfully acclimated this plant to windowsill conditions. If you wish to attempt this, I recommend that you grow the plant successfully with high humidity first and then acclimate it very slowly to low humidity.
For some general South American Drosera growing tips, visit our grow guide found here.
Flowering and reproduction:
D. graomogolensis is easily propagated vegetatively. I have found that one mature leaf cutting is capable of yielding upwards of six potential plants. In order to propagate D. graomogolensis by leaf cuttings, I snip off a newly grown, healthy leaf with dew on it (this is important) and float it in a petri dish with distilled water. It is important that the petri dish receives a lot of light but does not overheat. Alternatively, I have also placed leaf cuttings directly onto moist sphagnum and have had successful, albeit not as prolific, results. If your leaf cuttings was successful, you should being to see small nub-like plants emerge after several weeks. Allow the individual plants to grow small roots before separating them and planting them in media.
Leaf cuttings certainly work well, but in terms of the sheer numbers of plants produced, I have had the best results from root cuttings. Whenever repotting my plants, I snip approximately half of their roots off. While you'd think that this would make them quite upset, they have never seemed to mind all that much. I then try to rinse as much media off of the freshly harvested roots as I can. Why? In my experience, more plants will sprout if the surface of the root is exposed to light. After washing off the media, I lay the roots across the surface of a long-fiber sphagnum mix (live sphagnum should also work fairly well, so long as it doesn't overgrow the roots). Sometimes I will pin down the root with strands of sphagnum—it is important that it has good contact with the sphagnum surface. Additionally, I highly recommend placing a bag around the entire pot in order to increase humidity. Once the plants have reached a decent size, I will cut the roots to separate them and then pot them individually. Make sure that you bag them, since they will have very undeveloped roots at this time.
D. graomogolensis flowers but is supposedly not self-fertile. Since many of the plants in cultivation are the same clone, this makes it somewhat difficult to get seeds. However, I hypothesize that attempting manual self-pollination might lead to a small fertile seed yield; this was the case for me with a supposedly sterile clone of D. spiralis. Still, D. graomogolensis is easily propagated through vegetative means, so I don't think that its supposed infertility is all that big of a deal.
D. graomogolensis is beautiful and, in comparison to other South American Drosera, not all that hard to grow! What's not to love? If you have recently purchased a plant, please note that it can take a few weeks to settle into its new conditions. Don't be worried if it doesn't look all that good at first! I hope this post has been helpful—there are some more photos below.
Until next time,
Last Saturday, Dan and I traveled to Princeton University in order to attend the third meeting of the Mid-Atlantic Carnivorous Plant Society, a new start-up CP society on the East Coast. The attendees included a healthy mix of CP veterans, new growers, and college students looking for something to perk up the dorm. The agenda consisted, among other things, of talks about growing tepui CPs (delivered by me and Dan), creating CP setups, tissue culturing Dionaea, and CP stamps. A plant auction rounded off the evening; quite a few nice plants were sold at even nicer prices.
A shoutout to the Princeton University Botany Club and Michael Szesze's Carnivorous Plant Nursery for helping to host the event and make it possible!
Here are a few of the display highlights from the meeting. For the full photo gallery, check out the link here. In addition, the MACPS website is located here; if you're in the area, definitely sign up for the newsletter! The MACPS has quite a few interesting events planned for 2018.
Hey guys, Alvin speaking. We don't seem to have too much representation from Pinguicula on our blog at the moment, so it's time to rectify that. Enjoy, and please let us know if you found this post helpful!
P. moranensis/rectifolia? (Sold to me as P. potosiensis but the legitimacy of that name is hotly disputed.) I put one plant on the rock initially and it later divided.
To begin your rock planting, you'll want to select a suitable rock. This is very important (unless you're a person who has the time to constantly babysit each of your individual plants), since you do not want the plants to desiccate, especially during the growing season. Ideally, you would use a chunk of pumice as your base - it wicks water extremely well and is prone to having convenient little pockets that plants fit snugly into. I used basaltic scoria for all of my plantings. It doesn't have quite the same water retention capabilities of pumice, but it's still quite adequate and I appreciate the more rugged look that it offers (pumice is a bit too "lightweight" for my tastes, although I have seen some really superb plantings done on pumice). Regardless of whichever rock you use, you'll want to be sure that there are indents or pockets in visually appealing places where you can stick the plants. If there aren't, you may want to consider taking the initiative and drilling some holes in yourself. Take into account how you want the final product to look - do you want a single large specimen, or a variety of species clustered together? Do you want to have the plants hanging off of a vertical surface, or spread out on top of a larger, flatter rock? It would also be wise to take into account the growth habits of the species you plan on using, as well as how their colors and profile might balance out. It's all really up to your artistic tastes.
Treat the plants how you would normally grow your Mexican Pinguicula - meaning lots of light and mild temperatures, naturally. Humidity is not a major concern. The only maintenance required for the rest of the growing season is keeping the water level topped up. It's that simple!
If you're a fan of Pinguicula and haven't tried this method of growing them yet, I highly recommend that you do so. It's incredibly rewarding and not significantly more difficult than growing them traditionally. The only drawback I can imagine is that rock plantings may require more room - but as CP growers I'm confident that we've all had excellent practice in cooking up flimsy excuses to procure more growing space.
Hey guys! Alvin here. Sorry about the lack of activity recently, Dan and I have both been very busy this fall. Nonetheless, now that temperatures have started to decrease here in the Northeast, I had to share a few snapshots of some of my cool-growing plants that are starting to look nice again. I find autumn to be a curious time as a CP grower; although the shorter photoperiod and cooler weather signify the end of the growing season for all of my temperate carnivores, this is also the time of year where many of the highland plants that sulked during summer start to look their best. Enjoy!
Greetings! Dan here.
This is our first of hopefully many species profiles. In essence, species profiles will include a generous amount of growing information about a particular species, including tips, our experiences, and photos. Please let us know if you find this article helpful. I hope you enjoy!
Some general information on Utricularia:
Since we haven't talked much about Utricularia on our blog, I'll write a quick overview of the genus. Utricularia (bladderworts) is a genus of over 200 carnivorous plants. While very diverse, all Utricularia essentially share the same underlying structure. They have a network of underground stems (known as a stolons) that grow under the soil surface for terrestrial species, along supports (usually mossy tree trunks, rocks, etc.) for epiphytes, and free-floating for aquatic species. Attached to the stolon are small bladders, which are sealed with a "trapdoor." Water is pumped outside of the bladder, leaving the interior of the bladder with negative pressure relative to the outside and creating a partial vacuum. The outside of each trapdoor contains trigger hairs, much like a Venus fly trap (although the trigger hairs of Utricularia are purely mechanical in nature, in contrast to those of Venus fly traps, which work on irritability). When these hairs are touched, the trapdoor opens and the vacuum sucks in the nearby prey, usually consisting of protozoa and other soil inhabitants. In order to photosynthesize, the stolons produce leaf shoots that penetrate the soil surface.
Hello friends! Dan here.
On September 9th, Alvin and I traveled to Boylston, Massachusetts to vend plants at the Annual Fall New England Carnivorous Plant Society Show. It was a fantastic time; plenty of well-grown plants were on display. There were interesting lectures and the grounds of Tower Hill Botanical Garden (the show's location) were absolutely breathtaking. Best of all, there were lots of people in attendance that seemed eager to learn about and grow CPs!
Here are some of my favorite pictures (which were all taken by Alvin... unfortunately my camera malfunctioned). You can view the whole gallery here.
Note: The majority of the plants on this post are not ours. All growers are given credit in the captions! (I've also added some of my own remarks. - Alvin)
Until next time,
I had the wonderful opportunity to pay a visit to the Native Exotics facilities this weekend. Ryan is an incredibly knowledgeable grower and his plants were both numerous and amazingly well-grown. If you have not purchased from or interacted with Native Exotics yet I highly recommend you do, as the time and effort that Ryan puts into the upkeep of both his sales plants and personal collection is evident.
Here are some of the highlights from the visit. For all of the photos from the visit, check out the gallery here.
Hello, Alvin speaking.
In order to celebrate the recent launching of the Carnivorous Journey Facebook page, we've decided to give away one of my Drosera regia pictured below. There are some requirements if you'd like to enter though! You must: 1) Like our Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/CarnivorusJourney/ 2) comment that you would like to enter on the giveaway post on that page 3) have a valid US shipping address and 4) be prepared to do your homework and research how to properly care for one of these, if you don't know how to already (cultural information for D. regia may be found on this blog). The winner will be chosen via random number generator on July the 20th at around 12:00PM EST and notified via PM. Shipping costs are on us. Good luck, and thank you for all the support we've received so far!
I think that lots of people find D. regia to be so frustrating because they try to grow it like their other Drosera. In reality, Drosera regia is only distantly related to other sundews (some people actually believe that it should be separated into its own genus entirely) and has cultivation requirements that closely resemble those of Heliamphora and Highland Nepenthes. Under the correct conditions, this species has actually been very hardy and tolerant for me. Still, being that plants online can sell for close to $40, I wouldn't recommend this species to someone that hasn't grown a decent amount of Drosera already.
I'd imagine that a big drop at night, as well as keeping the roots cool, can help offset daytime conditions that are a tad too hot. Other growers have reported that excessively cold temperatures can trigger dormancy, but, since dormancy isn't required, I maintain the same temperature conditions year-round (which probably isn't very feasible if you grow them in a greenhouse in a temperate climate).
I've kept my plants in both the most humid (70%+) and the least humid (around 40%) parts of the terrarium. To be quite honest, they didn't really seem to have a discernible preference. So long as other conditions are favorable, it doesn't seem to me as though humidity is overall a major factor in cultivation success.
The overall takeaway from this should be that, given the right conditions (bright light, cool temperatures, airy media), D. regia can actually be a fairly fast-growing and tolerant species. In my opinion, it's definitely one of the best species out there, and anybody contemplating whether or not they should cultivate it should bite the bullet and give it a try - you won't regret it! I'll now pass the mic over to Alvin, who's going to speak about his experiences propagating D. regia.
Despite the relatively high prices it commands in the market, D. regia is actually quite easy to propagate. The two methods used most often (aside from those with access to tissue culture equipment) are by seed and root cuttings.
watching the leaves dramatically curl over the hapless creature over the course of several hours. It does not matter as long as the plants are getting a suitable amount of nutrients. Some growers report that this species is difficult from seed since their seedlings tend to die after they have developed a number of true leaves. I think that this is likely a result of the seedlings starving to death as I have never had this problem.
Additionally, if you have a larger plant that is declining in health for some reason, root cuttings may be used as a final resort to propagate it before it croaks as long as there are still healthy roots.